I spent a month road-tripping around Scotland in the autumn of 2021. As a big fan of Mary, Queen of Scots, I was really excited to visit the places that formed the backdrop to her fascinating life. You’ll be glad to know that there are still many places connected to Mary, Queen of Scots over 400 years later.
Read on for a round-up of the key places for your Scotland itinerary, with a bit of history too. I’ve listed them in roughly chronological order in Mary’s life. This is an essential guide for any Mary, Queen of Scots fan.
Mary Stuart (aka Mary, Queen of Scots) is one of the most famous figures in Scottish history. Her dramatic and tragic story has held an enduring appeal over the years. She’s inspired countless books, plays, films, and TV shows (any Reign fans out there?).
Linlithgow Palace
Mary Stuart was born on 8th December 1542 at Linlithgow Palace. She was the daughter of James V, King of Scotland, and Mary of Guise, a French noblewoman. James V died shortly after her birth, and she became Queen of Scots at only 6 days old. Mary was baptised at the nearby St Michael’s Church, and spent the first 7 months of her life at Linlithgow Palace.
Linlithgow Palace overlooks the glistening waters of Linlithgow Loch. Although now a ruins, the palace was once a grand royal residence for the Stuart monarchs. James I of Scotland, Mary’s great-great-grandfather, built the original palace in the 1400s. Later Stuart kings rebuilt and renovated the palace according to their tastes. The worn sandstone carvings give us a glimpse into the palace’s former glory.
Linlithgow Palace was closed for conservation work during my visit, but is now back open. You can explore the various chambers and climb the spiral staircase to the upper levels. Linlithgow Park is a large grassy park with a loch. It’s a very pleasant walk, and you can view the palace from all sides. The adjacent St Michael’s Church where Mary was baptised is also a functioning parish church.
Check the Historic Scotland website to plan your trip to Linlithgow Castle. Linlithgow is an easy day trip from Edinburgh by train or car.
Stirling Castle
With a baby Queen on the throne, Scotland was in a vulnerable position. Relations between Scotland and its southern neighbour, England, had always been turbulent. Henry VIII, the King of England, saw this as a perfect opportunity to take control of the Scottish Crown. He pushed for a marriage between Mary, Queen of Scots and and his son, Edward Tudor (the future King Edward VI). This period of conflict between Scotland and England is known as the Rough Wooing. Wooing is an old-fashioned term for pursuing someone for marriage. The rather romanticised name glosses over the fact that this was an actual period of war between the two nations.
Mary moved to the greater safety of Stirling Castle because of the ‘rough wooing’. She was later crowned Queen at Stirling Castle in September 1943 at the castle’s Chapel Royal.
Stirling Castle is a fortress, perched on a rocky crag overlooking the city. Walking along the foot of Castle Hill, it’s clear to see why the Scots chose it as a safe haven.
But Stirling Castle was a royal palace as well as a stronghold. The royal apartments, marked by their golden outer walls, were built by King James V to welcome his french bride, Mary of Guise (Mary, Queen of Scots’ mother). The rich tapestries and oak-panelled ceilings are a re-creation of what the rooms would have looked like in their lifetime.
Stirling Castle is spectacular at sunset – the setting sun casts a golden glow on the back of the castle. It’s best viewed from the fields below, in the former royal gardens (known as the King’s Knot). All that remains of their former glory now is an oddly-landscaped grass field.
It’s cheaper to book your tickets to Stirling Castle online for a discount (and free for Historic Scotland members). Stirling Castle is open year-round.
Dumbarton Castle
Henry VIII’s nine-year-old son Edward succeeded him as King of England upon his death in 1547. England continued with the Rough Wooing. Less than a year later, the Scots suffered a heavy defeat to the English at the Battle of Pinkie Cleugh. Stirling Castle was no longer safe for the young Queen Mary, and she later moved to Dumbarton Castle.
As a child queen, it was the regency council calling the shots rather than Mary herself. Scotland forged an alliance with France for protection against England. As part of the treaty, Mary was to marry the Dauphin, heir to the throne of France. She would be raised at the French royal court, and one day become the Queen of France.
On 29th July 1548, aged 5, Mary boarded a ship from Dumbarton and set sail for France.
Dumbarton Castle, like Stirling, is a stronghold built on rock. The Scots were big fans of those, it seems. Dumbarton’s castle rock has distinctive twin peaks, known as the White Tower Crag and Beak. Double the protection?
Dumbarton was once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Strathclyde. The castle sits in a strategic position where the River Leven joins the River Clyde. The present castle was built in the 1600s, but the site has been in use for much longer, around 1,500 years. It was even (successfully) besieged by Vikings in 870 AD.
Dumbarton Castle was closed for conservation work during my visit, but it is now open again. Parts of the castle still have limited access, including the two main rock peaks. There is a small park at the foot of the castle, with good views of the castle. It’s also quite impressive when viewed across the River Clyde on the other bank.
Admission is currently free due to the access restrictions! Check for updates on the Historic Scotland website.
Mary, Queen of Scots in France
Mary would spend the next 13 years in France. She was raised at the French court, along with Henry II, King of France’s children. Her mother ruled Scotland as regent in her absence. Her time in France strongly influenced her style and tastes, and even her first language was French.
Mary, Queen of Scots married Francis, the Dauphin of France in April 1548 at Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. She was 15 and he was 14. By all accounts they got on extremely well, and she proclaimed herself “one of the happiest women in the world” on their wedding day. But her happiness was not to last.
A year later in July 1559, the King of France suffered a jousting injury and died unexpectedly. Mary was now Queen of France as well as Scotland.
Mary’s mother, Mary of Guise, died in June 1560. Later that same year, her husband King Francis II also died, reportedly from an ear infection. She was now a widow at age 18, having been Queen of France for just 17 months.
Mary’s journey in France will be reserved for a future blog post.
Edinburgh Castle
After Francis’ death, Mary returned to Scotland. A grand procession was held to celebrate her return. Mary rode from Edinburgh Castle down the Royal Mile, with welcoming crowds celebrating the return of their queen.
Scotland had undergone major religious reform in her absence: it was now a Protestant country. Despite the initial warm welcome, Mary’s position as a Catholic queen in Scotland was precarious.
Things were also complicated in England, too. England was also a Protestant country, ruled by Queen Elizabeth I. Some people, particularly Catholics, considered Elizabeth to be illegitimate, and Mary, Queen of Scots as the true heir. Mary had Tudor royal blood through her grandmother, Margaret Tudor, who was Henry VIII’s sister. Mary herself also had intentions towards the English throne.
Edinburgh Castle is no doubt the most famous and most-visited of all the castles on this list. Edinburgh Castle was the seat of power for the Stuart monarchs, including Mary, Queen of Scots. As with other strategically-important Scottish castles, Edinburgh Castle is also built on a rocky crag. Majestic and imposing, the castle can be seen from all around the city due to its elevation.
The Honours of Scotland, the Scottish crown jewels, are on display at Edinburgh Castle. They were used for Mary, Queen of Scots’ coronation, and the crown had originally been made for James V, Mary’s father. The Stone of Destiny (or Stone of Scone), traditionally used in Scottish coronations, is also housed in Edinburgh Castle.
You can easily spend a whole day here exploring this castle, which also has 2 small museums inside. Edinburgh Castle is a very popular visitor attraction, and tickets do sometimes sell out. I recommend booking ahead to avoid the queues and disappointment. Admission to Edinburgh Castle is free for Historic Scotland members, but you must book ahead online.
Falkland Palace
Scotland enjoyed an initial period of relative stability and tolerance. Despite being a Catholic queen, many of Mary’s close advisors were Protestant lords, including her illegitimate half-brother James Stewart, Earl of Moray. When she wasn’t busy ruling the country, Mary enjoyed horse-riding, hunting and falconry at her favourite countryside retreat of Falkland Palace. She also enjoyed playing tennis (yes, it existed back then).
A few years after her return to Scotland, Mary fell in love. The man in question was her half-cousin Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley. Darnley was tall, handsome and charming. Crucially, as a grandson of Margaret Tudor, he also had a claim to the English throne. He seemed to be the perfect match for the young Queen of Scots. They married in July 1656 and Mary soon fell pregnant. Their future child would have an even stronger claim to the English throne.
Falkland Palace in Fife was originally built as a hunting lodge. Later Stuart kings refashioned it into a luxurious renaissance palace, which is still well-preserved today. Falkland Palace houses Britain’s oldest royal tennis court, which was built in 1538 by Mary’s father, James V.
You can imagine Stuart royal life as you walk through the lavish royal apartments. There is also a recreation of Mary, Queen of Scots’ bedroom in Falkland Palace. The beautifully-maintained formal gardens are also a noteworthy mention. You can easily see why Falkland Palace was a favourite retreat for Mary, Queen of Scots.
Falkland Palace is managed by the National Trust for Scotland, and National Trust members can visit for free.
Holyrood Palace
Just as her happiness seemed complete, things were about to go downhill for Mary, Queen of Scots (again). It soon became apparent that marrying Darnley had been a mistake. He was arrogant, power-hungry and a violent drunkard. He also became jealous of Mary’s close relationship with her personal secretary, David Rizzio.
On the evening of 9th March 1566, Darnley led a group of conspirators into Holyrood Palace. Mary was dining in her private rooms with her friends, including Rizzio. A heavily pregnant Mary was held at gunpoint, whilst Rizzio was brutally murdered in front of her eyes. He was stabbed 57 times. Relations between Mary and Darnley had already been strained, but this event was a nail in the coffin of their marriage.
Holyrood Palace, also known as the Palace of Holyroodhouse, was one of Mary, Queen of Scots’ main residences upon her return to Scotland. It’s located in Edinburgh, at the other end of the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle. Holyrood Palace is still the official royal residence of the monarch in Scotland today. The palace is fit for a king, with antique tapestries and oil paintings of former royals hanging from the walls.
You can visit Mary’s old chambers in the palace, including the site of David Rizzio’s murder. Look out for the bloodstain (not real) on the floorboards in the outer chamber. There are also various items which belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots on display here.
Holyrood Palace is less visited than Edinburgh Castle, but still popular, so I recommend booking ahead to avoid the queues. It’s owned by the Crown, so no free entry unfortunately.
Craigmillar Castle
Mary gave birth to her son, James (future James VI of Scotland) at Edinburgh Castle on 19th June 1566. She had a period of illness soon after giving birth, and stayed at Craigmillar Castle to recover for a few weeks. While Mary was on her sickbed, her lords plotted to get rid of Darnley. They formed a pact known as the Craigmillar Bond during this time. It’s unclear whether Mary was aware of their plans or not.
Darnley died in suspicious circumstances on 10th February 1567. His lodgings in Kirk O’Field, Edinburgh had been destroyed by a gunpowder explosion in the early hours of the morning. But he and his manservant were found strangled outside. The explosion was meant to make his death look like an accident, but it was clear that he had been murdered.
A few months later, in May 1567, Mary married her third husband – James Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell. He was the prime suspect in Darnley’s murder, and the marriage scandalised Europe. It seemed like a crazy decision by Mary. However Bothwell had kidnapped Mary on her way back to Edinburgh from Stirling, where she was visiting her infant son, James. It’s likely that Mary was an unwilling victim in these events, and Bothwell had forced her to marry him.
Craigmillar Castle lies on the outskirts of Edinburgh. A small car park and an unassuming path lead to the austere-looking castle’s entrance. A pair of yew trees in the courtyard are said to have been planted in honour of Mary, Queen of Scots during her stay (probably a myth). Craigmillar Castle is well-preserved, with a labyrinth of rooms to explore, although it’s mostly bare inside. You can visit the room that Mary is said to have stayed in during her bout of illness in 1566. The castle ramparts offer sweeping views of the surrounding area, including Edinburgh city in the distance. Best of all, you’ll probably have the place to yourself, as it’s off the beaten track for most visitors to Edinburgh.
Craigmillar Castle is maintained by Historic Scotland – entry is free for Historic Scotland members.
Lochleven Castle
Mary’s marriage to Bothwell was to be her downfall. The marriage was deeply unpopular, and the Scottish lords rebelled against her. Mary was captured and imprisoned in Lochleven Castle. Soon after her imprisonment, she suffered a miscarriage of twins. She was forced to abdicate the throne in favour of her infant son, James. He would be raised as a Protestant with Moray, her illegitimate half-brother, as regent.
Mary was imprisoned in Lochleven Castle for almost a year. She eventually escaped on 2nd May 1568 under cover of darkness, disguised as a maid. She was rowed to shore with the help of sympathetic members of her jailer’s household.
Lochleven Castle is located on an island in the middle of a loch (Loch Leven) – a secure prison stronghold. Lochleven Castle has housed many important prisoners over the years, including Robert Stewart before he became King Robert II of Scotland. You can see the castle from the shores of the loch, but it’s still quite a distance to row!
The castle is open from April to October, and the passenger boat ride is included with the admission. You should book ahead, as spaces on the boat are limited. Entry is free for Historic Scotland members.
Dundrennan Abbey
After her daring escape from Lochleven Castle, Mary managed to muster a sizeable army of supporters. She faced her half-brother Moray at the Battle of Langside, but lost. She fled to the sanctuary of Dundrennan Abbey, where she spent her last hours in Scotland.
Mary fled to England, hoping for the support of Queen Elizabeth I to help regain her throne. Unfortunately, this was another grave miscalculation, and Mary never returned to Scotland or saw her son again.
Dundrennan Abbey was medieval monastery built in the 12th century. The abbey has aged gracefully. It’s now a ruins, but some of the magnificent arches and columns are still preserved. The stone floors have been replaced by grassy lawns. Walking through the arched doorways and stepping over the foundations, you get a small glimpse into the everyday lives of the Cistercian monks. It’s very peaceful here – the abbey is surrounded by countryside, and not many visitors make it to this part of Scotland.
Dundrennan Abbey is open from April to September and maintained by Historic Scotland.
From the outside, Mary’s life seems to have been one tragedy after another. With the benefit of hindsight, she seems to have made the wrong decision at every turn. It’s hard to know how much agency she had in some of her decisions, and she would have encountered many difficulties as a female ruler in a male-dominated world. Although Elizabeth I ‘won’ in the end, Mary’s legacy still endures today. In fact, the current royal family are descendants of Mary, Queen of Scots through her son, who would later also become King of England.
Several of the places mentioned in this post (and many others connected to Mary) are managed by Historic Scotland. I road-tripped around Scotland for a month and got the annual membership. If you’re planning to visit several sites on your Scotland trip, it’s worthwhile getting a 7-day Explorer Pass to save money on entry fees.
Well that concludes our Mary, Queen of Scots tour of Scotland. There are, of course, many more places that Mary visited in Scotland. Let me know in the comments if you want a part 2!
Want to see more of Scotland, why not visit the Scottish Highlands on an epic road trip?
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