The Scottish Highlands are famed for their beautiful and rugged landscapes. The North Coast 500 is the ultimate road trip through Scotland, and the perfect way to explore the highlands. It’s a 516-mile circular route along the northern coastline, with some of the best scenic views Scotland has to offer.

If you’re reading this, chances are you’ve already decided to take the plunge with this epic road trip. That’s great news; I’m excited for you!

With so many options, researching and planning your route can feel a bit overwhelming at first. I’ve compiled the perfect 7-day North Coast 500 itinerary for you based on my experiences travelling through Scotland. There are plenty of stunning views, (short) hikes and, of course, castles. This route goes anti-clockwise. We start on the east coast and finish with the breathtaking landscapes of the western Highlands.

This is by no means a prescriptive guide – use it as a rough roadmap for your trip. For each day, I have included a total estimated drive time (not including stops) to give you an idea of what to expect. You will be stopping along the way to admire the views, so the drive will not feel monotonous. After all, the journey IS the destination on the North Coast 500 route.

The Best Time To Go

The high season for tourism in Scotland is in the summer months of June, July and August. This is when Scotland has the best weather (although sunny days are still not guaranteed) and longest hours of daylight. July and August will be particularly busy due to the school summer holidays. The North Coast 500 route has become ever more popular, and you may find some attractions crowded and accommodation costs much higher, or even unavailable.

The shoulder season months of April/May and September/October are quieter and cheaper, and probably the best time to visit Scotland. The biggest uncertainty is the weather, however. Whilst sunny weather is also not guaranteed during summer, you are much more likely to get rain in the shoulder season. Rain is an inevitability in Scotland, but it doesn’t spell disaster. Scotland can still be atmospheric and enchanting in overcast or foggy conditions. Did you even go to Scotland if it didn’t rain on you?

You’ll find that many businesses on the route are open seasonally. Attractions such as castles and museums usually close for the year at the end of October, and do not open again until the start of April. There will also be a smaller choice of accommodation out of season. The weather (heavier rain and snow) will make the winding roads of the North Coast 500 much harder to navigate. Although the official North Coast 500 website extols the virtues of visiting in winter, I’m not sure I’m convinced.

Driving the NC500 Route

The North Coast 500 is a series of connected roads that take you along the coastal route in the Highlands. There isn’t one ring road all the way round (like in Iceland). Google Maps will try and take you the quickest way, but you are taking the scenic ‘long way’ round. Check the route before you set off. You can follow the brown ‘NC500’ signs to stay on track.

The North Coast 500 is beautiful to drive, but be prepared for some tricky parts. Good portions of the route are winding single-track roads, especially on the west coast of Scotland. Most roads are easily navigable with a regular car, and you don’t need a 4×4 (I drove a VW Polo). In fact, smaller cars will find it easier to pass the narrower roads. When there’s traffic coming from two directions, one of you will have to pull into a passing point to let the other past. The generally accepted etiquette is for whoever is closest to a passing point to pull in. You’ll soon get the hang of single-track road driving if you haven’t done much of it before, so don’t let that put you off. The only part of the itinerary nervous or inexperienced drivers should skip is the Bealach na Bà on day 7 (there is a diversion available).

The speed limit for most of the route is 60 miles per hour, but you may often find yourself driving below the speed limit due to the twists and turns. The roads are also used by locals to go about their daily business, and can become congested in peak tourist seasons. Be mindful and allow locals to overtake you if necessary. It’s no fun having someone on your tail anyway.

Parking is generally free for beaches and other outdoor areas, and they are usually well-signposted on Google Maps. There will also be viewpoints with designated spots to pull over and enjoy the view safely.

If you’re planning to rent a car for your North Coast 500 road trip, I recommend looking on RentalCars.com to compare prices. The site is owned by Booking.com, and they usually have good deals. You should pick up and drop off your car in Inverness.

NC500 Accommodation

You should book all your accommodation in advance. I usually enjoy a bit more spontaneity on road trips, but the small highland towns/villages have limited capacity, so booking ahead guarantees you have somewhere to rest for the night. In peak season, many places get booked up quite far in advance. With packed days of adventure, you may also be arriving fairly late in the evening. Scotland does allow wild camping, so if you’re travelling with a campervan or a tent, that’s one way to be more flexible and also save money. The majority of places I stayed were guest houses or B&Bs (bed and breakfasts), which I found through booking.com. My general rule of thumb is a rating of 8.0 or higher and ideally with breakfast included.

Food on the NC500

Although you will find some excellent fresh seafood and hearty pub fare along the way, don’t set your culinary expectations too high. Food is not the main focus of this trip.

As you get more remote, dinner options become more limited. You are in the Scottish Highlands after all, not a bustling metropolis. Bringing emergency food is also advisable for this trip. In the Highlands, restaurants and shops may close earlier than what you’re used to. Popular restaurants usually get booked up in advance, so ideally call the day before or in the morning for dinner reservations. Packed lunches are a good way to save both time and money on your North Coast 500 trip.

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North Coast 500 Itinerary

Day 1 – Inverness to Dornoch

Day 2 – Dornoch to Wick

Day 3 – Wick to Thurso

On day 3 of our NC500 itinerary, we reach the northernmost part of mainland Scotland. We have another interesting castle and some coastal landmarks to visit. There is also the option of a detour to the Orkney Islands.

John O’Groats: you might have heard of the Land’s End to John O’Groats cycling route, which stretches from the most southwesterly point in Cornwall up to the northwestern tip of Scotland. You’ll be pleased to know that the iconic endpoint is a stop on the NC500 route! The unusual name of the place comes from Jan de Groot, a Dutch merchant who set up a ferry route from Caithness to the nearby Orkney Islands. Contrary to popular belief, John O’Groats is not actually the most northerly point of mainland Britain (but don’t worry, that’s also on the itinerary for today). There’s not much to see in John O’Groats other than the signpost – get your obligatory touristy photo here and move on.

Duncansby Head: a short drive east of John O’Groats is Duncansby Head, the most north-easterly point of mainland Britain. There is a lighthouse here built by the Stevenson family (relatives of the famous poet, Robert Louis Stevenson). The Duncansby Stacks, a group of rocky sea stacks, are usually visible just off the coast (unless your visit is blessed with torrential rain, as mine was).

Castle of Mey: this Scottish castle was once the home of the Queen Mother (mother of Queen Elizabeth II). She bought the castle shortly after being widowed and completely renovated it from its semi-derelict state. The gardens were a source of pride for the Queen Mother, and are still beautifully-maintained today. The Castle of Mey is usually open to visitors May to September (check before going). The now King Charles comes to stay at the castle annually in the summer, and the castle is closed to visitors during this period. Entry inside the castle is by guided tour, so spaces are limited. You can also purchase a gardens-only ticket. There is an animal sanctuary (mostly farm animals) in the castle grounds, as well as a nice tea room for lunch.

Dunnet Head: this is the most northerly point of mainland Britain! It’s about half an hour’s drive west from John O’Groats, which is commonly misquoted as the most northerly point. There is another Stevenson lighthouse here. The rugged clifftop has a viewing platform, which is perfect for birdwatching.

Thurso: our stop for the night is Thurso, the northernmost town on the Scottish (and British) mainland. The town’s name means Thor’s river in Old Norse, pointing to its past Viking connections. There’s not much to do in Thurso itself, except to lay down your weary head for the night.

Orkney Islands (optional detour): if you want to venture further afield to the Orkney Islands, ferries depart from John O’Groats for day tours. Ferries also operate from Gills Bay (near John O’Groats) or Scrabster (near Thurso), and you can take your car.

Accommodation Options in Thurso

Premium: Forss House – a beautiful and secluded country house with a woodland backdrop and waterfall
Mid-range: Park Hotel – comfortable modern rooms with breakfast included
Budget: Holborn Hotel – budget single rooms available, perfect for solo travellers, great on-site restaurant serving locally-sourced produce (I recommend their Highland venison)

Day 4 – Thurso to Durness

We have a longer drive on day 4 of the NC500 itinerary, as we cover the wide stretch of coastline along the north. There will be lots of beautiful sandy beaches and scenic views today.

Melvich Beach: our first stop of the day is Melvich Beach, about half an hour’s drive from Thurso. A short walk through grassy sand dunes and you’ll reach an expansive golden beach. Perfect for a leisurely stroll.

Strathy Beach: our next beach, located in Strathy Bay, is flanked on either side by rolling green hills. You can get a bird’s eye view from the hills or walk down the path to the beach itself. There are public toilets at the beach car park here.

Strathy Point: located close to Strathy Beach, Strathy Point juts out at the tip of the adjacent peninsula. There’s a lighthouse and beautiful clifftop views of the sea. You might even spot some harbour porpoises from here. There’s a small area to park towards the end of the road (labelled on Google Maps as ‘Car Park’). From there, it’s another 10-15 minutes’ walk to the lighthouse on well-paved roads surrounded by fields of grazing sheep.

Beaches: there are plenty of nice beaches along the way if you still want more. Armadale Beach is a short drive from Strathy Point. Further along the north coast is Farr Bay in Bettyhill. Torrisdale Bay is an expansive mile-long stretch of sand at the mouth of the River Naver. You can find the remains of a shipwreck and an Iron Age broch here. Take your pick of beach picnic spots for lunch.

Tongue: take a quick stop in the village of Tongue to stretch your legs. Depending on time and inclination, there is an optional hike to the ruins of Castle Varrich. It’s an hour’s round trip on foot from the village. You can climb the (modern) metal staircase to the top of the tower for a view of the Kyle of Tongue.

Kyle of Tongue Bridge: this is an unusual semi-circular causeway over a sea loch. Drive across the bridge to continue your NC500 journey. There is space to pull over and park on the causeway to admire the view.

Moine: after the Kyle of Tongue, you will encounter a large area of peat bog called Moine Mhòr. It was treacherous terrain for travellers in the past, and they would stop at Moine House to rest for the night. Luckily for us, there’s now a nicely-maintained modern road to drive through. Moine House is now derelict, and has become an open-air canvas for graffiti artists.

Durness: we stop for the night in the village of Durness. There are very limited options for dinner here, so aim to bring your own food. We will explore the sights of Durness tomorrow.

Accommodation Options in Durness

There aren’t many accommodation options in this remote corner of Scotland, and things do get booked up well in advance. You may have to try several sites to find something suitable for Durness. I’ve included a few additional options, most of which require booking directly on the accommodation website. If you can’t find any accommodation in Durness, try stoping earlier in Tongue instead. Tongue is about an hour’s drive from Durness, so you would have a longer drive the next day.

Premium: Mackay’s Rooms – boutique hotel with upscale Highland decor
Mid-range: Smoo Cave Hotel – converted traditional crofting house, on-site restaurant and bar available
Mid-range: The Wild Orchid Guest House – small guest house offering dinner using locally-sourced ingredients
Budget: Lazy Crofter Bunkhouse – quiet hostel in the centre of Durness, where I stayed during my NC500 trip
Budget: Durness Youth Hostel – basic hostel with kitchen facilities offering single-sex dorms and family rooms

Day 5 – Durness to Ullapool

We are driving a fair distance on day 5 of our North Coast 500 itinerary – from Durness to Ullapool. There are some more stunning beaches and lochs to be seen on the way. Our journey takes us along the scenic coastal route, but you can shave an hour off the driving time by skipping the turning onto B869.

Durness: before we set off, we will pay a morning visit to the two beautiful beaches in Durness. Durness Beach, a long stretch of stunning shoreline, is best seen from the Sango Sands Viewpoint. A bit further out of town is Balnakeil Beach, a glorious stretch of unspoilt sand that’s quieter than Durness Beach.

Smoo Caves: we’re doubling back slightly to visit the Smoo Caves. Uniquely, the caves were formed by both seawater and freshwater. The caves are free to visit, and there’s a small waterfall inside. You can also do a paid guided tour, weather-dependent, to access the innermost cave.

Kyle of Durness: this is a beautiful expanse of shallow turquoise water and sandy bay. You’ll drive alongside it as you head southward from Durness on the A838. The best viewpoint is marked on Google Maps as “Stories in Sand Stone”.

Kylesku Bridge: keep driving south until you reach the distinctive curved Kylesku Bridge. There are places to park on either side of the bridge to admire the view if you wish. For a late lunch/early dinner, the nearby Kylesku Hotel serves excellent fresh seafood that is locally-sourced.

Coastal Route: after Kylesku, instead of continuing on the A894, take a left turn onto the B869 and follow the coastal route. This is a winding single-track road that can be quite narrow in places, but the views are stunning. It’s easy to skip this part if you want to avoid these roads. You’ll drive alongside Loch a’ Chàirn Bhàin, a sea loch that the Kylesku Bridge also crosses. Stretch your legs in the small village of Drumbeg and admire the view. Achmelvich Bay is another beautiful white sand beach with turquoise waters.

Lochinver: the single-track road ends and the regular A837 resumes here. Lochinver is a small village at the mouth of Loch Inver, a sea loch. Lochinver Larder here is famous for its pies.

Loch Assynt / Ardvreck Castle: this is a freshwater loch with the ruins of a castle (struck by lightning) on its shores. Ardvreck Castle was the 15th century seat of the MacLeods of Assynt, and stands on its own semi-island.

Ullapool: we end our day in Ullapool, which is a large (for Highlands standards) village and port on the shores of Loch Broom. Ullapool is about a 40-minute drive from Loch Assynt, and you will likely be arriving later in the day. There are plenty of dining options along the harbour (mainly hotel restaurants). There is also a large supermarket here to pick up supplies.

Accommodation Options in Ullapool

• Premium: Harbour House – top-rated B&B with stunning loch views
• Mid-Range: The Royal Hotel – clean and modern furnishings and large rooms
• Budget: Ullapool Youth Hostel – hostel offering small 6-bed dorms

Day 6 – Ullapool to Kinlochewe

Day 7 – Kinlochewe to Inverness

Driving Time: 3.5 hours (or 2.5 hours without Bealach na Bà)

We’ve reached the final day of our North Coast 500 trip! Have a hearty breakfast, as we have a long and scenic drive ahead. The journey really is the destination today. Be prepared for lots of single-track roads on today’s drive. We will be driving through the famous mountain pass called Bealach na Bà, which is not for the faint-hearted (but there is an easier detour option). We finish our trip in Inverness, back where we started. As an alternative, you could also extend your trip by continuing further south to the Isle of Skye.

Shieldaig: start the day by heading towards the small village of Shieldaig. The drive is very scenic, with craggy mountains on both sides. You’ll also pass by a few lochs, including Loch Torridon and Loch Shieldaig. Once you reach Shieldaig, you have a choice to make: whether or not you want to tackle the Bealach na Bà. It’s a challenging road to drive, and not suitable for caravans or motorhomes. If the weather is bad or you are an inexperienced or nervous driver, you may also want to skip this section (continue on the A896 to Tornapress). Skipping the mountain pass will shave 1-1.5 hours off your drive time.

Applecross Peninsula: turn right off the A896 just after Shieldaig to access the winding coastal road that takes you around the peninsula to Applecross (via Fearnmore). Applecross village is where the Bealach na Bà mountain pass starts. To skip this portion of the route, continue south on the A896 until Tornapress.

Bealach na Bà: this is the famous twisting mountain road in the Scottish Highlands. The name ‘Bealach na Bà’ means ‘pass of the cattle’ in Gaelic, and points to the road’s original use for moving cattle. It’s a single-track road, with some steep gradients, sheer drops, and narrow bends (the term ‘hairpin bend’ is overused). You can expect traffic coming from both sides (the road is still used by locals), so be prepared for some tense manoeuvring and slow progress in peak season. You’ll be rewarded with a spectacular view at the summit (if the weather is on your side – fog and low-lying clouds are not that uncommon here).

Back to Inverness: the Bealach na Bà ends at Tornapress, where we are back on a 2-lane road (huzzah!). Option for a late lunch at Kishorn Seafood Bar. Continue on to Lochcarron, a village on the shores of (yep, you guessed it) Loch Carron. Head back to Inverness and enjoy the last of the scenery on the way (fastest route 1.5 hour drive). If you’re not ready to get back to the city yet, you could extend your trip and continue on to the Isle of Skye.

Accommodation Options in Inverness

Premium: Ness Walk – top-rated hotel with a beautiful riverside setting
Mid-range: Drumdale Bed and Breakfast – comfortable B&B with excellent location in the centre of Inverness, the included Scottish breakfast gets rave reviews
Budget: Inverness Youth Hostel – centrally-located hostel with both dorms and private rooms

So there we have it, a perfect 7-day trip through the Scottish Highlands. From mountains to beaches to castles – the North Coast 500 has all you could wish for in a road trip. And if you haven’t had enough of Scotland, how about doing a detour to the Isle of Skye or the Orkney Islands?

If you found this guide useful in planning your North Coast 500 trip, leave me a comment below – I’d love to hear from you!

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